what dremel bit do i use to cut a laminate countertop
#1 
Posted 21 April 2011 - 10:09 AM
Some scholarly readers may be familiar with the Journal of Negative Results (and its sister publication -- the Journal of Irreproducible Results).
In that spirit, this posting reports my results in attempting to cut Formica.
For those impatient readers, the publicized method of scoring with a utility knife / Exacto bract works fine. I found that approach creates a clean edge. I fabricated about 10 passes along each line. Fewer than that did not produce a deep enough cut to get a good break. I applied a good bargain of pressure to the blade, perhaps about 20 pounds of strength.
And then, if the razor blade works, why attempt another method? Really??? This forum is populated with people who NEED a reason to try something different? 
If you insist on a reason -- offset, razor blades are just wrong, unless you lot are some kind of sicko killer. They are an insult confronting nature. 2d, this is a manual method. I have thousands of dollars worth of pneumatic and electric tools yet I am going to utilize my own easily to cut something? Once again, but wrong.
1. So, the first affair I tried was a Dremel tool with a diamond cutting disk. I cut everything with that -- aluminum, plexiglass, sheetrock. Cuts information technology all like butter. Did not put a paring in the Formica. I was kind of amazed. What is this stuff??? 
2. Bandsaw. Ok, I only considered the bandsaw. 
My saw has an 11" throat and therefore is not deep enough for cuts of the magnitude I needed. I will give it a attempt on a modest slice, though, to run into what happens.
3. Pneumatic shears. These are basically a big stiff pair of air-powered pair of scissors. These cut the Formica pretty well, but left a really jagged edge. I could non use the pieces.
4. Pneumatic nibbler. This tool takes little bites out of the material. This method worked acceptably well. The ends were rougher than I would have liked, but acceptable if cosmetics are not an issue.
Lesser line: Nothing yet produces well-nigh equally clean a cut as scoring with a razor blade. Only I have not given up 
#2
Posted 21 Apr 2011 - 10:23 AM
Get the piece cut larger than the size table top you're cementing information technology to. (Can be done your way higher up.)
Become a LAMINATE CUTTER with a abrupt new bit and pilot bearing, looks similar a miniature router. Pretty cocky explanatory; I did the tabular array tops in a cabinet factory used for production. A trivial cleanup with sandpaper on a wood block makes for a dandy bevel. FWIW,
Marker
#3
Posted 21 Apr 2011 - ten:thirty AM
2. Bandsaw. Ok, I only considered the bandsaw.
My saw has an xi" throat and therefore is non deep plenty for cuts of the magnitude I needed. I will requite it a try on a small piece, though, to meet what happens.
You tin can cutting whatever size circle on a 11 inch pharynx bandsaw even
eight anxiety dia if yous want. :)You place the piece on the right side of the bract.
Sam
#4
Posted 21 Apr 2011 - 10:52 AM
Another way not to cut it is to not use a router with say a ane/4" straight bit with perhaps a sheet of 3/4" ply underneath the Formica and a canvas of Masonite on top to guide the router, or non utilise the technique Mark described with the router for circles...
Gary
#five
Posted 21 April 2011 - 11:08 AM
There is also a tool with rollers that cuts a strip of laminate, useful for making distance bearings. It makes a overnice clean cut, only mine has a trend to jump off track and ruin the slice.
#6
Posted 21 Apr 2011 - 01:05 PM
Your bandsaw is likely to chip out on the bottom side, and then that cutting method will nearly likely involve the oversize-cutting-and-router method (that'd exist the way I install most all laminate)
If edges and surfaces get involved, I e'er do the edges first, though normally that's countertops and the similar. I guess if it was an 'edge-showing' application, then glue the border on last.
cutting: a skil saw is messy, a jigsaw is messy - but better with a fairly fine blade, a table saw with a fine bract is way all-time for direct cuts, and those new vibrating-sawblade tools work great, only the laminate dulls the blades fairly fast. a utility pocketknife and a straightedge gives most the best cut of annihilation, because it isn't chipped at all.
And past the way, I like the old-style stinky-solvent contact cement way better than the water-soluble version.
there's my two cents......
Russ.
Oh yes.......cutting the material with a router with a thin bit run along a straightedge works really well, too, if y'all're router-friendly.
#7
Posted 21 April 2011 - 01:53 PM
I could non use my bandsaw because I needed to cut a 28" square out of a 48" long piece. No dimension that was 11" or less. 
Does the bandsaw actually do a skillful chore of cut Formica?
Similarly, I thought about using my router with 1/4 bit, but did non try it. That would be a adept solution for me.
#8
Posted 21 Apr 2011 - 02:xv PM
I glue the formica offset and so cutting, this sample is with 1/4 inch by half dozen tooth bract. For alt brgs I utilize a regular tile pocketknife a little over size then route or file edges. A trimmer router like Mark says is nice to accept.
#9
Posted 21 April 2011 - 02:nineteen PM
Heres the bottom no tearout.I'thousand going to try simply the formica with a 1/four past x tooth bract when I go a hazard.
#10
Posted 21 Apr 2011 - 02:29 PM
I've seen the trim routers, but was not quite ready to spring for a special purpose tool when I just had a couple of pieces to cut.
Recently I saw Harbor Freight has a 1/4 trim router for $20 - $30. That does not seem outlandish, if it would piece of work.
I accept a nice total size Bosch router. If a one/4 fleck does a skilful chore, that would be my preferred solution.
#xi
Posted 21 April 2011 - 02:34 PM
For that sort of cut with a router I support the cut every bit close as possible on both sides.
Gary
#12
Posted 21 April 2011 - 02:47 PM
Anything is worth a effort (as long as information technology's condom)on scrap pieces first. Y'all have to ruin a few bit pieces first till y'all go it correct.Bosch tools are like Snapon tools to me. 
Sam
#xiii
Posted 21 April 2011 - 03:10 PM
I have a overnice full size Bosch router. If a 1/iv bit does a good job, that would be my preferred solution.
That, with a carbide tipped cutter should be fine.
The trimmer does the same thing, just easier to hold if you have a lot to practice.
Gary
#14
Posted 21 April 2011 - 03:thirteen PM
y'all can get a laminate trimming chip for a dremel.
Grendel
#15
Posted 21 Apr 2011 - 06:12 PM
you tin can get a laminate trimming bit for a dremel.
Grendel
I remember having seen those in a couple home improvement stores over here. They don't accept a ball bearing, and I read quite some horror stories of burn marks due to friction with those bits. That was enough for me to decide to shelve the Dremel road for this blazon of jobs.
What I also tried without success, was cutting the Formica laminate with a flexible, fine-toothed, brand new Japanese saw. I got chipped off edges all over the cut.
What works really well for me, is a direct border and a sharp utility knife. I usually do more than xx passes, often scoring the unabridged thickness of the laminate earlier I decide to snap information technology off at the score line.
Coarse and so fine sandpaper on a sanding block are for finishing. A file for the fibroid cleanup.
#16
Posted 21 April 2011 - 06:53 PM
As a chiffonier installer for years I've always crude cut with fine toothed plywood blades on a table saw. After gluing to wood or particle board I ever used a router followed by a quick deburring with a hand file. Looks very neat. ;)Mike
#17
Posted 21 April 2011 - 08:01 PM
Bending grinder, score, snap and sand.
#eighteen
Posted 21 April 2011 - 08:06 PM
Keep in mind Harbor Freight tools are often 1 or 2 use before they self destruct.
#nineteen
Posted 22 April 2011 - 09:53 AM
Keep in mind Harbor Freight tools are often i or ii use earlier they cocky destruct.
Very true except for their electric hoists!! :smiling:Mike
#20
Posted 22 Apr 2011 - 11:07 AM
How many teeth on the table saw blade when you cut Formica? I believe my plywood blade is either 72 or 80.
I have to defend Harbor Freight. Their tool quality has gone up dramatically, IMHO, over the last few years. I accept had occasional bug, but returned the problem tools with no question. Mostly, I accept been very satisfied. That said, I bought a Bosch router, which I think is wonderful. I as well did not buy any jackstands from HF. I could come across myself lying under a automobile and wondering about the quality of the disbelieve Chinese casting ...
#21
Posted 22 Apr 2011 - 11:48 AM
...What works actually well for me, is a straight edge and a abrupt utility knife. I usually practise more 20 passes, frequently scoring the entire thickness of the laminate earlier I decide to snap it off at the score line....
That's non the best mode to cutting laminate.
If yous want to cutting it by hand use the proper tool. That would exist a scoring cutter.
It'due south pictured here about two thirds of the mode downwards.
It's simply a carbide molar mounted at the end of a handle. It's inexpensive and you can them at a decent hardware store.
dan
#22
Posted 25 Apr 2011 - 03:47 PM
I didn't know such tool existed. So far I oasis't seen it in any hardware shop I've been to. I'll take a await next fourth dimension I go shopping
#23
Posted 26 April 2011 - 08:36 AM
Keep in listen Harbor Freight tools are often 1 or 2 employ before they self destruct.
I accept a nice expensive Ryobi angle grinder sitting on the workbench in pieces with a bad switch later perchance an hour's utilize. $xxx will become me a new switch.
I have two HF $15 iv" angle grinders with over fifty hours on them. They're pretty noisey, but they'e working. The Makita was working fine until we drop a auto torso on it. Now it needs a new cord. Just easier/cheaper to get the 2nd HF.
My laminate trimmer is a Porter-Cable. I have three other routers up to 3hp, merely the trimmer is the one I use the virtually often. Information technology'southward slap-up for round overs and all types of finishing work. Can't plough iii/4" by ii" mortises, but how many stair railings does i do.
#24
Posted 27 April 2011 - xi:39 PM
I needed to cut strips of Ebony Star to wrap around my GSO dob trunions. The diameter was a chip pocket-size for the thickness so I hatched a programme that I was sure was going to fail miserably, simply it didn't - worked similar a charm!
I started by planing away half the thickness of bankroll with an electrical plane. Then I used what we in Australian call "tin can snips" to cut out my strips.
I was surprised that it worked so well.
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#25
Posted 28 April 2011 - 06:08 AM
At the advice of someone in the past, I tried tin snips.
I remember that for those of us that don't own the "proper equipment" information technology's probably the best style.
Source: https://www.cloudynights.com/topic/322656-how-not-to-cut-formica/
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